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Kits The Shack

Four States QRP Group Dummy Load

This dummy load, designed by Dave Cripe NM0S and offered by the Four States QRP Group, is an easy foray into the world of kit building with SMD components. It will handle 10 watts and incorporates a basic power meter as well. At just over $15 shipped, it is a deal that’s hard to pass up.

No shack is complete without a dummy load, especially if you like to build kits, since it provides a way to test transmitters without risk of damaging them or creating interference to other hams. Basically, a dummy load is a false antenna. To the radio, it looks like a real antenna. The dummy load will absorb the energy it transmits instead of radiating it any real distance.

This dummy load, designed by Dave Cripe NM0S and offered by the Four States QRP Group, is an easy foray into the world of kit building with SMD components. It will handle 10 watts and incorporates a basic power meter as well. At just over $15 shipped, it is a deal that’s hard to pass up.

The kit in position, ready to be built

With a low parts count and straightforward instructions written by Joe Eisenberg K0NEB, I was able to build it in pretty short order with the soldering iron I already owned. In this case, no new tools were required to transition from through hole to surface mount components.

Soldering SMD components with a traditional iron is pretty easy, especially with this kit. The spacing between the pads and its large components are great for the beginner or for the out of practice.

To solder SMD components, first apply solder to one side of the pad. Then, holding the component in place with tweezers, reheat the pretinned pad to solder it in place. Last, apply solder to the other side to complete the job.

One component placed with left side soldered down
One component placed with left side soldered down
One component installed with both sides soldered down
One component installed with both sides soldered down

As you can see above, I applied solder to one side of each pad in one step. Once I installed all of the SMD style resistors, I moved on to through hole components: the diode, the LEDs, the capacitor, and the BNC.

If you remember the last post, I said that I made a mostly working kit. Well, I was in a rush to complete this kit before my wife and son got home and I installed all the LEDs backwards. Mr. Cripe was kind enough to send me a few more after I messed mine up. Once I got them in the mail, I uninstalled the old LEDs and installed the new ones correctly.

I cleaned up the holes using a desoldering braid and desoldering pump.
I left one old LED in place as a reference to ensure I installed the new components the opposite, correct way. Note the position of the anvil inside the LED.

Sure enough, the LEDs lit up once installed the right way. With my Mountain Topper displaying a battery voltage of 11.7V, three of the LEDs were full brightness with the 5W LED at half brightness. I’m a pretty satisfied customer. Now, I need to get that Pititico II completely done and hooked up to this dummy load to see if I can get 0.5W out of it.

The MTR3b barely illuminates the 5W bulb using a voltage of 11.7V

I continue to be impressed with the quality of every Four States QRP Group kit that I build. The boards are thick and have good pads to solder to. The components are of nice quality, especially the BNC jacks they have sourced. I wish that all my kits had these jacks on them. If you want to start building kits or are just looking for your next project, I highly recommend any of the Four States offerings.

See more about the Four States QRP Group

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